An experience of jazz in New orleans
New Orleans and jazz are inseparable—one cannot exist without the other. Known as the birthplace of jazz, this vibrant city has a musical heartbeat that resonates through its streets, clubs, and festivals. From the soulful sounds of Louis Armstrong to the lively improvisations in Frenchmen Street bars, New Orleans continues to celebrate its rich jazz heritage while embracing new voices. This article explores the city’s unique relationship with jazz, its evolution, and the unforgettable experiences that make it a haven for music lovers worldwide.
During the summer of 2024, I was fortunate enough to make the trip across the Atlantic to spend a few days in New Orleans. The impact of the Jazz scene was apparent from the moment I arrived at the airport. The airport itself is called the Louis Armstrong Airport, and there are nods the the culture of Jazz throughout the airport.
The Richard Thomas Mural - Depicting the Jazz Legends of New Orleans at MSY Airport.
Despite it being nearly midnight, on a Thursday and just a day after Hurricane Francine hit the area, the city was alive with activity. Our hotel was located on the world-renowned Bourbon Street - the Royal Sonesta. As a Brit, I would describe Bourbon Strip as the “Malia Strip of America”. It is iconic for its vibrant energy, rich history, and unique cultural blend. Located in the heart of the French Quarter, it is famous for its lively nightlife, jazz clubs, Creole restaurants, and historic architecture. It is also one of the only places in the country where you can publicly consume alcohol, meaning that the activity travels from bar to bar.
After a day of travelling, I hit the hay pretty early. On Friday morning, As I prepared to make my way down towards the Mississippi River, I was greeted with a different view of Bourbon Street. It was quiet(er), clean(er) and less bright. The tarmac was wet where street cleaning trucks had made their way down the street earlier on in the morning. I found myself walking along the river towards Cafe du Monde near Jackson Square. Cafe du Monde is a well known spot where you can find Beignets. these are essesntially doughnuts caked in powdered sugar. It was here that I experienced my first taste of the true New Orleans Jazz Scene. A busking band was setting up to serenade the cafe. They played a myriad of traditional jazz songs, no vocalist necessary.
Later on in that day we had arranged to go on a city tour. Our tour guide took us round the French Quarter, out towards the cemeteries and via a quick stop in a bourbon distillery. That evening, we made our way towards Frenchman Street to catch some live music. We visited a couple of bars including the Snug Harbour Jazz Bistro and the Spotted Cat Music Club before getting some late night food at the Marigny Brasserie. All venues had excellent music, including the Brasserie where we were treated to a gentleman singing only adlibs to national favourites such as Otis Redding’s “Dock of the Bay”.
The next day was spent on the Bayou, touring the swamps in search of gators. We retired back to the hotel in the afternoon. We were treated to a “Project X” style party in the pool for the duration of the afternoon. Not that anyone was really partying, but it was enjoyable to have some background music whilst reading my book. The evening was spent at the Rib Room restaurant attached to the Omni Royal hotel before a couple of drinks listening to the fantastic Nayo Jones experience in the Jazz Playhouse of the Royal Sonesta Hotel. The covers mixed in with some original tracks made for a delightful evening. The setup at the Jazz club is brilliant. You can apy for a table seat or sit at the bar and soak it all in. The Nayo Jones experience were just fantastic. Saxaphone, Clarinet, Double Bass, PIano and percussion to acompany the vocals were fantastic.
The Sunday jazz experience was spent on the deck of the Natchez. The Natchez Steamboat in New Orleans is a living relic of Mississippi River history. This iconic paddlewheeler offers scenic Mississippi cruises with live jazz, stunning river views, and authentic Southern charm. Whether for a sunset dinner or a daytime tour, a ride on the Natchez is a must-do for any jazz lover visiting the city of New Orleans.
Whilst my experience of the Jazz Scene in NOLA was surface level, it left me as any great holiday should - wanting more. Thank you to this fantastic city and all of the special artists I had the pleasure of watching for making my time out in New Orleans such a special experience.
